Friday, January 31, 2014

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Chaise Chair Woodworking Plan

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Free Woodworking Ideas Plans

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Thursday, January 30, 2014

Look Woodworking plans for adirondack chair

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potato bin woodworking plans

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Wednesday, January 29, 2014

4d custom woodworking

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31-DP-00926 - Easy Swingin Arbor Downloadable Woodworking Plan PDF


31-DP-00926 - Easy Swingin Arbor Downloadable Woodworking Plan PDF

Plans for Sales Woodworking Projects Napkin Holder Wooden DIY PDF


Plans for Sales Woodworking Projects Napkin Holder Wooden DIY PDF

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Homemade Tool Plans: 31 Shop Built Tools for Woodworkers |


Homemade Tool Plans: 31 Shop Built Tools for Woodworkers |

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Wood Magazine Special Publications - Best-Ever Home Shop Ideas (Fall

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Tuesday, January 28, 2014

Woodworking projects beginners

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Do Kit – Pre-Cut Woodworking Projects


Do Kit – Pre-Cut Woodworking Projects

it is not always feasible to purchase furniture or decorative woodwork


It is not always feasible to purchase furniture or decorative woodwork

Beginner Woodworking Projects | free woodworking projects plans


Beginner Woodworking Projects | free woodworking projects plans

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VIRTU CANADIAN RESIDENTIAL FURNITURE DESIGN COMPETITION




VIRTU was a national furniture design competition organized by a group called Forum & Function Directions in Canadian Design, led by Ester Shipman.
The format of the exhibition was to invite designers to submit pieces. All those accepted were “winners” and became part of the exhibition. Some works not accepted were given “honourable mention” and photos of these pieces were also displayed as part of the exhibition.
This annual competition seems to have spanned a period of about twelve years beginning in 1985 and ending in 1996. I am not able to come up with much by “googling” but here is something from CBC radio on the jury process.

The images here are the front and back of the flyer used to publicize the event. I had the good fortune of exhibiting four pieces in this inaugural event as well as having an image of one of my chairs used for all of the publicity materials and the exhibition catalogue. The publicity materials were designed by Bruce Mau.
It’s interesting to note that these competitions ceased around the time that personal computers and the internet became common. 1995 was the year that Windows ’95 was introduced and the year that I acquired a personal computer and started designing with CAD.
Furniture design of course has changed in Canada over the past twenty five years. Styles and fads have come and gone.
I am not aware of any national Canadian furniture design competitions or exhibitions taking place since the end of Virtu. Of course there are trade shows, industry events such as IDS in Toronto and IDSwest in Vancouver. These are not competitions or juried exhibitions but trade shows, provided they meet a basic criterion, anybody who pays the price is part of the show.

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All Wrapped Up kinda


Ive finally finished (well almost) my project from two doors! I started and took a little break because I didnt know exactly how I wanted to finish it. So this is how it sat for several weeks.


Ugly, right? I originally had it stuck in my head that I was going to paint it. Probably because Ive painted a lot of things in the past year, check out my DIY projects page to see a few. Lately, Ive been seeing lots of great projects that were transformed by fabric, such as on Recently and Hello Boudreau, both projects are stunning!

Once I had used an entire tube of wood filler and still had holes to fill in, I thought that fabric would be a great way to hide those small imperfections.

Before I get to the fabric (and my reasoning for why its kinda finished), here is how we built the table.


We started with two doors purchased from Habitat Restore, $15 for both. We used the one on the bottom (no knob hole) for the top of the table and the legs were created from the two ends of the top door (to avoid the knob hole), the cut (open side) was placed on the bottom and the solid end was the top edge.



David measured and used the chop saw, we have this one which weve been very happy with. Since we dont have a table saw, he cut half of the door and then flipped it over to cut the other half. The key to getting clean, less splintery cuts to to cut slowly (David just taught me this as I was cutting too fast - the other day, that is David in the pics :)


I forgot to take pictures of the rest of the steps, so I made a drawing instead. Hopefully it still makes sense :)



Once the legs were attached with screws, we filled all of the holes with wood filler. Once dry, a lot of not so fun sanding happened. Afterwards, I looked like I had walked through a dust storm!

Between all of the cutouts for hinges, door jam, and scratches on the door, I was tired of filling in holes. Finishing with fabric was a a great way to hide some of the minor imperfections that were left.

I would definitely not recommend sitting on this or placing a heavy computer on it without extra reinforcements; however, as an accent table, it is good to go!

I followed a fabric wrapped table top tutorial on Martha Stewarts site found here. My only deviation was how I finished the edges, see below for more details.

The table was primed (from when I was planning on painting). Cut and ironed with starch my fabric, Waverly Enlightened in Pumice, which I found at my local fabric store, Beverlys and with a 50% off coupon it was $10 a yard. 


I brushed on water based polyurethane and applied my starched fabric, adjusting it till it was straight. I then finished with one coat of polyurethane (I may add more later like recommended in the video)


Look at that crisp corner! Using the starched fabric and ironing the fabric/polyurethane made it easy to fold and get such a crisp edge. The top is one piece of fabric and the corners were folded at a 45 and the left over fabric was folded over the edge, to be covered next.


For the inside I cut a 25" wide piece of fabric and folded/ironed the edges .5". This covered the raw edges on the inside. Wrapping the table in fabric took about 2 hours.

I love the look of the fabric!! It was pretty easy to achieve a wrinkle free look by following the video and is a great way to add texture and pattern to a piece!

Cost breakdown:

Doors: $15 (Habitat Restore)
Fabric (2.5 yards): $25 ($10 a yard at my local fabric store)
Polyurethane: $ 7 (Wal Mart)

Total: $47

I could of cut cost by choosing a cheaper fabric or using a different fabric inside, but I love the continuous look!  

Now onto my problem. I have a tendency to get excited about projects and just start. Sometimes this works and sometimes it doesnt. For this project I would of been better off drawing a few options for the dimensions of the table to see what would work best with the ottomans.

When put with the ottomans, it fits exactly over them (which looked great in my head but a little tight in person), when I think it would look better about 6-8" taller than the ottomans. The plan is to add legs to give the table a little more height.

See what I mean? Sorry for the dark photo, I took this last night as the sun was going down.


So lesson learned, draw out your ideas (with a few options to choose from) prior to doing anything permanent. Of course it can be fun just to try something, just maybe when money and time arent invested :)

Im hoping the addition of a few legs will help. Or if that wont work, Ill try to craigslist it and then build another one :)

I also updated the mood board with a few new fabric options.


Ill be back soon to share updates on the new draperies for the bedroom, Eames chairs, and new office table. Whew, thats a lot of projects!



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Monday, January 27, 2014

On going projects

Bringing things up to date -
After 2 solid months of good work and great projects, things are settling down a little.  I have all of the past projects finished (6 in all), and this week I will begin collecting and prepping materials for a new project.  This will be a 15 wide built-in, painted white, in Sylvania, Ohio!  The on site work begins January 3rd, so watch for pictures.  The church cabinets are on going - paying projects take a front seat (although I do not mind doing work for my church).
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VERITAS� Detail Chisels



I first purchased the set of five Detail Chisels from Lee Valley Tools a little over a year ago and can say I’ve used them on an almost daily basis ever since. My first impression when they arrived via Mail-order was the size. They’re small, extremely light and almost hobby like. Being used to chopping out mortises and cutting dovetails with heavier European style chisels, I decided to give the Detail Chisels a try and was pleasantly surprised by what I discovered. Using Chisels with only hand force was nothing new to me; however, using chisels designed to be used with only hand force was something new and quite exciting. For cleaning out dovetails and other fine paring style work these small chisels excel. The small size fits comfortably in hand almost like an extension of your fingers slicing and manipulating wood fibers in an effortless fashion. Designed by Yeung Chan, a California cabinetmaker, they have pau ferro octagonal handles and blades of O1 tool steel. The set of five consists of three dovetail-style chisels (bevel-edged to a narrow land on each side), one trimming chisel, and a 1/16" wide tapered chisel perfect for fine detail work. The chisels can be purchased individually however this set of five handles all of my fine detail work. Another advantage of the set of five is the price, at $ 195.00 this high quality set of hand made chisels is one of the sweetest deals I’ve found.
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Sunday, January 26, 2014

Crown molding follow up pics

Here are a few more pics of the recent crown molding project.  This was the most difficult corner - a 1" bull nose on the drywall with a short return.  These were taken after the final caulk/paint/finish work.





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Final Flooring Challenges Part I


So I decided it was time to really finish the bamboo floor. The floor itself has been down for a while, and we love it, but we have been living without transitions. Well, there was a transition from the hall to the bathroom, but it was a strip of blue painters tape. Not exactly "finished".


I used the manufacturers bamboo t-strip for the transition from the dining room to the kitchen. That went fine, especially when I switched from the electric cordless drill to a Yankee brace. Plenty of torque, loads of control, great "feel" and no split bamboo. Why did I try the Makita in the first place? Dope Slap number one!


The bathroom transition was more of a challenge. The bamboo in the hallway, and the vinyl in the bathroom were not level. The vinyl was 3/16th lower. If the t-strip does not sit level, evenly supported on both sides of the "t", it splits when you step on it. Hmm. My first thought was to plane the hall side down by 3/16th. But that would weaken the already thin top and also make the curved top asymmetrical. Hmm. I could shim the bath side, but it would be visible along the edge. And what did I have that was 3/16th thick? I actually started digging around for some thin birch ply...Dope Slap number two! I could just make what I needed.


I got out the resaw and cut what was basically some extra thick veneer from a piece of clear fir. Here it is laying on the bench cut side down:



The other side, with raking light, and you can clearly see the saw tracks. I flip the piece edge-for-edge as I resaw, allowing the existing kerf to guide the saw on the side away from me. Half-way down I flip the board end-for-end, and cut down until I reach the kerf coming in from the other end. This photo shows the middle of the stock, where my two cuts met. The small, raised triangle at the bottom was the last part to separate. It never got cut - it split off due to lateral pressure from the saw blade. As you can see from the tracks in the upper right, I was starting to wander off and when I twisted slightly to correct, the blade just popped the remaining connection.



After planing the strip smooth and to final thickness, I needed to glue it to the t-strip. The curved, slippery surface made this a bit of a challenge, but heres what I finally came up with. Its times like this that I am glad I built my bench without a front apron.



While waiting impatiently for the glue to dry, I took some "artsy" shots around the shop. Later, I had some fun turning them into computer "watercolor paintings". Geek Fun! (Youll probably need to click on these to get the full effect.)




Heres the finished t-strip. End view:



Side view (overhead angle):



And in place:



I really like it, and you have to get pretty close to see it, even when you know its there.


Next up, the border around the wood stove rock platform...



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Saturday, January 25, 2014

The Mystery of the Nib is Solved!


When I got up this morning, I had no idea that in the course of my normal day I would stumble upon the definitive answer to one of woodworkings most puzzling conundrums. But that is exactly what happened!

Thats right, without even meaning to, I have found the solution to the eternal question: "What is the purpose of the nib on old handsaws?"

Who knew that the solution was thoughtfully provided over 80 years ago by a helpful manufacturer of cigarettes? I didnt. And truthfully, I almost missed it today, all because of a slight linguistic twist (or Queens English) that replaces the term "nib" with "notch".

Without further ado, I present to you now, THE ANSWER:





Messrs W.D. and H.O. Wills, of Bristol and London, we salute you! Now the collective mind of the hand tool world can focus anew on the remaining mysteries: bevel up, or bevel down; push or pull planes; Western or Japanese saws; planes resting sole down, or on their sides, or maybe with their toes upon little blocks of wood...


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A Porch In My Finish Room A Full Size Mockup

9/24/09 The furniture made it to its porch in Boston this week ...

And what a grand porch it was ... I was thinking the coffee table might be tight, but instead, it couldnt have been any smaller for the sclae of the porch ... perfect!

8/27/09
Im working with some friends/clients on furniture for their porch. Its a beautifu, spaciousl porch on a grand old home and we want to do it justice without filling it up so much that it feels crowded. I fooled around with a couple different layouts in my cad program and now that we have finished the chairs, were working on a size and shape for the coffee table. Fortunately , the client had stopped by last week just as the table/desk shown in a recent post was leaving and happened to get a good view of it just before we loaded it up. She had seen the wood at Open Studio back in May and coincidentally I had the smallest of the three slabs still on hand. The porch is longer than my finish room, but I had enough room to layout and mockup the business part where most of the furniture will go in full size, including the slab for the coffee table. We set it up on some scrap plywood that was a little shorter than I would have designed it, but it turned out it that lower was perfect. Good for feet, can also double as a bench, emphasizes the horizontal length of the seating layout and does a good job of standing up to the overall space of the porch ... Looks like itll work, and totally reinforces the concept of mocking things up in full size WHENEVER YOU CAN cause they always look different in person than they do on paper or in your minds eye. No substitute for the real thing, the real size, AND the real height. Taping it out on the floor just wont do .... Check it out ... Click the pictures to enlarge them ...

The actual porch

First Layout

Final Layout

The chairs in the shop ... 4 fixed, two rockers ... The real cushions will be ready next week
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